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{"id":459,"date":"2015-10-20T20:19:25","date_gmt":"2015-10-20T18:19:25","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.worldresonance.com\/?p=459"},"modified":"2015-10-21T08:16:33","modified_gmt":"2015-10-21T06:16:33","slug":"coterie-new-york-ones-to-watch","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.worldresonance.com\/coterie-new-york-ones-to-watch\/","title":{"rendered":"Coterie New York: Ones to Watch"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"kokler-summer-fashion\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Coterie New York: Ones to Watch<\/h1>\n

Fresh faces and new lines to check out at the Coterie trade show in New York, Sept. 19 to 21 at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center.<\/p>\n

Signorelli<\/strong><\/h4>\n

From Disney star to TV producer to fashion blogger \u2014 Ashley Tisdale has accumulated many of the buzziest job titles for this millennium. She now can add another: creative director for Signorelli.<\/p>\n

The new venture for the former \u201cHigh School Musical\u201d actress entails overseeing the development of a sportswear line launching next fall to complement the $39 graphic T-shirts that the 10-year-old brand sells at Nordstrom, Fred Segal, Von Maur and Lord & Taylor. Along with Meredith Garrett, who passed the creative direction duties to Tisdale but retains the position of president and chief executive officer at the Huntington Park, Calif., company, Tisdale is envisioning the addition of layering pieces and bottoms that can be dressed up or down, with retail prices capped at $120. In the meantime, she led the charge to finding the photographer, casting the models and styling the jetsetter-themed look book for the 70-piece spring collection.<\/p>\n

\u201cI love being creative,\u201d Tisdale said. \u201cI love to mix high-end and low-end<\/em>.\u201d<\/p>\n

Despite her lack of formal education in design, Tisdale grew up as the daughter of a fashion college graduate turned boutique owner. \u201cI\u2019m one who shops all the time,\u201d she confessed. \u201cMy knowledge comes from being a fan of fashion.\u201d<\/p>\n

Garrett is an advocate of celebrity collaborations. She\u2019s partnered in the past with Nicole Richie to create T-shirts for charity. Although Garrett met Tisdale a couple of years ago, the two reconnected recently when Tisdale started floating an idea to start her own clothing line. By taking on the role of creative director, the 30-year-old actress joins other famous fashion-loving personalities, including Russell Westbrook, Kerry Washington and Cameron Diaz, who all aim to do more than lend their names and faces to clothing, beauty and accessories lines in exchange for hefty fees.<\/p>\n

\u201cI like that this is long-term<\/em>,\u201d Tisdale said. \u201cEvery product I do is a piece of me. For a long time, I wanted a clothing line<\/em>.\u201d<\/p>\n

Not that Tisdale has much time to spare. Besides contributing to her two-month-old fashion site called The Haute Mess, she also serves as executive producer on the ABC Family comedy \u201cYoung & Hungry\u201d and stars in \u201cClipped\u201d on TBS and \u201cTruth Be Told\u201d on NBC.<\/p>\n

\u201cShe wants to work for it<\/em>,\u201d Garrett said. \u201cIt\u2019s not about her ego. She\u2019s really passionate about creating something that expresses herself<\/em>.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u2014 Khanh T.L. Tran<\/p>\n

Michael Maven<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Established in South Africa by sisters Nadia and Natasha Michael just 18 months ago, Michael Maven makes its second appearance at Coterie this year, exhibiting in the New Designers Section, aiming to build traction in the U.S.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe\u2019ve been in retail in South Africa, and it\u2019s a much smaller market, not as developed,\u201d Nadia said. \u201cIt tends to be risk-averse in terms of accepting and welcoming new brands<\/em>.\u201d<\/p>\n

The retail scene at home is dominated by mid- to mass-market chain stores, so it made strategic sense to target the U.S. market. Nadia and Natasha, who are in their mid-20s, described their working relationship as being a joint effort.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe basically do everything together,\u201d<\/em> Nadia said. \u201cWe decide what theme we want to go with in the design process, what our inspiration is and where we want to go with the line. We have our mood boards, then we go off on our own, but there\u2019s a point when we meet to conceptualize, then put everything together. We also edit together. We basically see the process through together.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n

Pared down classics with a sexy edge is this young brand\u2019s signature.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe Michael Maven woman is very much strong and confident,\u201d <\/em>Nadia added. \u201cShe\u2019s astutely aware of her presence.\u00a0Our aesthetic is effortless and we tend toward minimalism. With this upcoming collection, we decided to be a bit more adventurous, so we will be showing prints this time, whereas previously we had more muted tones, we had more clean lines. This time, it\u2019s still the same Michael Maven, but with a slight departure.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n

Nadia handles the marketing aspect of the business, while Natasha takes the lead with regard to production. The line is produced in Italy.<\/p>\n

After its debut at Coterie last year, the line, which retails from $200 to $850, was picked up by the Dash retail network, in addition to a smattering of independent boutiques in Brooklyn and the Dominican Republic. Kendall Jenner and Zendaya are among the celebrities who have been spotted wearing Michael Maven.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe always like to give our wholesalers a good margin to play around with, so we normally give them a 2.7 mark-up to work with,\u201d Natasha said. \u201cI think it\u2019s quite an accessible price point.<\/em>\u201d<\/p>\n

\u2014 Bambina Wise<\/p>\n

Les Cinq<\/strong><\/h4>\n

An Italian living in Paris, Les Cinq designer Lisa Traverso decided to start her own company after working for such fashion houses as Diesel, right after completing school in 2007, and Emanuel Ungaro, where she started after moving to Paris from her hometown near Venice, in 2009. She then spent two years working for Faith Connexion and has been a freelance consultant with Balmain and currently for Acne Studios.<\/p>\n

Traverso started making gloves before expanding into a more varied sportswear collection. Living in Paris and regularly traveling gave her perspective on the contemporary women she saw around the world. Her customer is \u201clooking for comfort and performance pieces, yet she\u2019s carrying sophisticated and fashionable gear that she adopts in her everyday looks.<\/em>\u201d<\/p>\n

With an interest in extreme sports, street trends and manga, her collection features performance fabrics and high-quality leathers for an on-the-go customer, who is \u201ca leader in everyday life\u2026an adventurous explorer with a sharp, curious mind.\u201d<\/p>\n

Already selling at 10 stores in Italy and France, she aims to build global distribution through trade shows such as Coterie. Retail prices run from about $100 to $1,200.<\/p>\n

Along with high-performance outerwear, Les Cinq offers base layers such as leggings, short-sleeve tops, zip-front jackets, dresses and jogging pants.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe collection addresses the growing desire for a wardrobe that mixes and matches fashion with activewear and performance pieces that offer contemporary urban silhouettes<\/em>,\u201d she said.<\/p>\n

\u2014 Rosemary Feitelberg<\/p>\n

Betro Simone<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Stefanie Betro brings her early training as a ballerina and painter to bear when she designs her Betro Simone collection. Spaghetti straps and pieces with wrap closures that are typically worn by dancers feature in the line, along with painterly prints similar to Betro\u2019s own works in watercolors.<\/p>\n

The Los Angeles-based brand, begun in late 2014, interprets the city\u2019s casual vibe with a decidedly contemporary spin. \u201cL.A. has this typical Bohemian connotation<\/em>,\u201d Betro said, \u201cbut there\u2019s a side that\u2019s modern and forward.\u201d<\/p>\n

Betro favors simple, sexy cuts like halters and jumpsuits. \u201cI was a ballerina for 15 years,<\/em>\u201d said the designer, who was a member of the California Riverside Ballet. \u201cI also have a painting background. I\u2019m inspired by sculpture and art and organic textures and shapes<\/em>.\u201d<\/p>\n

Betro Simone in May was picked up by Nordstrom for 20 doors. \u201cThe collection sold out in the first two weeks,\u201d Betro said. \u201cNow it will be carried in all Nordstrom stores.\u201d<\/p>\n

Spring nods to the Seventies, but not the \u201cBirkenstock Seventies,\u201d <\/em>she said. \u201cIt\u2019s more of the late Seventies or early Eighties period of Polaroids and color saturation and Studio 54<\/em>.\u201d<\/p>\n

At her first job, Betro found that she had an affinity for working with novelty dyes. A coworker suggested that she take some art classes and she enrolled at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in Los Angeles. \u201cIt really helped me learn what colors will bleed and how they react to one another,\u201d she said.<\/p>\n

Betro\u2019s foray in apparel design was for a company that made\u00a0yoga and loungewear. She designed private label for Anthropologie and Urban Outfitters, then launched the Tina + Jo label in 2012. She left that brand to strike out on her own with Betro Simone.<\/p>\n

Daniel Guez of Blvd Brands, who in 2004 introduced the premium William Rast denim line with Justin Timberlake, reps Betro Simone.<\/p>\n

Betro keeps pieces light and breezy with modal spandex, crepes and rayon spandex. Shorts retail for $58; tunics, $88; minidresses, $78, and maxidresses, $135.<\/p>\n

\u2014 Sharon Edelson<\/p>\n

K\u00f6kler\u00a0<\/strong><\/h4>\n

K\u00f6kler is a cross-cultural melting pot.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"kokler-summer-fashion-03\"<\/a>
Kokler Summer Spring<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The collection\u2019s name, which means \u201croots<\/em>\u201d in Turkish, is designed by the multinational triumvirate of Emine and Hatice Sagdic, sisters of Turkish descent who were raised in Germany, and Kleant Stasa, an Albanian. The collection is manufactured in Italy using Italian fabrics.<\/p>\n

The Sagdics met Stasa while the three were studying fashion design at AFOL Moda in Milan. After cutting their teeth at various design houses \u2014 Stasa at G.C.C Studio, Ports 1961 and Mila Sch\u00f6n, and the Sagdic sisters at Class Cavalli \u2014\u00a0 they launched K\u00f6kler in 2013.<\/p>\n

Hatice works on the collection full time, while her partners devote about 25 percent of their time to the brand, she said. Emine lives in Switzerland and works for her boyfriend\u2019s jeans company, while Milan-based Stasa does tailoring for men\u2019s suits.<\/p>\n

They start planning a collection by Skyping, but always meet in Como, Italy, where Hatice lives, to finalize the line.<\/p>\n

For spring, the team focused almost entirely on shirts. For their theme, they chose Nur Banu, the influential wife of Selim II, Sultan of the Ottoman Empire. Born in Italy, Nur Banu was abducted and taken to the royal harem where she became the favorite of Selim II. She eventually became a cultural bridge between the Ottoman Empire, the Venetian republic and the duchy of Verona.<\/p>\n

\u201cShe was very strong and intelligent. She influenced the harem, the military and the system of education<\/em>,\u201d Hatice said, adding that K\u00f6kler created three shirt lines, each influenced by one of Nur Banu\u2019s strengths, naming them Harem, Nizam and Ilim. \u201cWe like a woman with strength, but we also like some fragility.<\/p>\n

She said the interplay between a woman\u2019s two sides is achieved with fabrics such as cotton organza, satin and Egyptian cotton.<\/p>\n

K\u00f6kler\u2019s fall 2014 collection was shown at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York as part of the Italian emerging talents show. The label will present its Nur Banu line at Coterie, followed by the Pizzini Showroom in Milan.<\/p>\n

\u00a0Source: WWD<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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